With a height of 1446 metres and an age of 700,000 years, the white mountain rises on the horizon. Even from Reykjavik, 120 km away, you can see this glacier covered mountain on a clear day beyond Faxaflói Bay. Snæfellsjökull is a stratovolcano that forms the western end of the Snæfellsnes peninsula in western Iceland. 

I first saw this mountain on a whale watching tour in December 2019. It was a clear and calm winter evening, the boat moved quietly through the bay. The air was freezingly cold and you could hear the soft sound of cracking ice. There on the horizon rose a lonely white mountain.

When I stood at the foot of the mountain a few days later, the clouds hung very low and it did not show itself once. It would take another 2 years until I would see it for the first time in summer 2020. For me this volcano is one of the most impressive and beautiful mountains I have ever seen in my life.

Snæfellsnes has always been one of my favourite regions in Iceland. In a relatively small area you can find idyllic villages, a national park, rugged coastlines and various natural wonders. 

1. Berserkjahraun

If you take road 54 from Stykkishólmur west towards Grundafjördur you will pass through the Berserkjahraun lava field. This 4000 year old lava field with its numerous craters offers an impressive view and various hiking possibilities

2. Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss

Kirkjufell is a picturesque 463 meter high mountain that rises high above the town of Grundarfjörður on the Snæfellsnes peninsula. It is known as the most beautiful mountain in Iceland and one of the most photographed landmarks.

At the foot of the mountain is Kirkjufellsfoss. This waterfall, together with the mountain, makes a unique photo motif.

3.  Svörtuloft Lighthouse

The westernmost tip of Snæfellsnes is called Öndverðarnes. The dramatic black cliffs in the area are called Svörtuloft (black ceiling). The cliffs were formed when hot lava from Snæfellsjökull volcano was thrown into the sea, whereupon the energetic waves of the Atlantic Ocean broke off the outer rocks, leaving vertical cliffs. At the edge of these cliffs is the Svörtuloft lighthouse.

The Lighthouse stands around six meters tall and boasts a fluorescent orange color. It was constructed around 1931.

4. Djúpalónssandur

Djúpalónssandur is a black sand beach at the south-western end of Snæfellsnes. The beach is named after the adjacent Djúpalón lagoon.

It is a dramatic site with rock formations, two brackish pools and the rock arch Gatklettur. Some of the black sands are covered with rusted pieces of metal from the English trawler Eding, which was shipwrecked here in 1948.

Down on the beach you can still see four lifting stones where the crews of the fishing boats tested the strength of the budding fishermen.

5. Malarrif lighthouse

The stone, white Malarrif lighthouse at Londrangar, on the south-western tip of the Snæfellsnes peninsula, is a proud 24 metres high. It has been in operation since 1946. The area around the lighthouse offers several photo opportunities.

6. Lóndrangar

Lóndrangar are located in the immediate vicinity of the Malarrif lighthouse. The Lóndrangar are two rock needles of volcanic origin. They are made of basalt and are the result of an erosion process. The heights of the two elevations are 75 and 61 metres. 

This place has often amazed me. While in winter mighty waves crash against the cliffs, in summer the sea can be absolutely calm. I fondly remember a quiet summer evening when the silence was only broken by the screeching of birds and the sound of a whale breaching out of the water.

7. Old farmhouse

This old Farmhouse is located along the road 54 between Londrangar and Hellnar.

8. Hellnar Church

Hellnar is an old fishing village. More than 200 people lived here in the 18th century. Today, the village seems very deserted in parts and people no longer go fishing. 

The small church, which is very picturesquely situated, was consecrated in 1945.

9. Arnastapi

Arnastapi is a small idyllic fishing village on the south side of Snæfellsnes. The landscape is characterised by rugged basalt coasts. 

10. Budirkirkja

11. Ytri-Tunga

Ytri-tunga is a white sandy beach. Here you will find a seal colony and many storm petrels in summer.

How to get to Snæfellsnes peninsula

Snaefelsness is 120km from Reykjavik and 175km from Keflavik International Airport. It takes about 2-3 hours to reach this place. 

From Reykjavik, follow Route 1 (Ring Road) north towards Borgarnes. In Borgarnes, turn off onto road 54 heading west. Road 54 is the main route around the peninsula. 

Road 54 leads over the Vatnaleið mountain pass towards Olafsvik. Even though this road has just been upgraded, it is still advisable to take road 56 in winter. 

It is possible to reach the peninsula by bus. Bus 57 leaves once in the early morning from the main bus station in town. You have to change buses in Mjodd and Borgarnes and it ends in Stykkisholmur. For travellers who want to go further west to Snaefellsjokull National Park, bus route 82 departs once daily in the morning from Stykkisholmur to Arnarstapi.